Wednesday, February 19, 2020

Homemade compost: 3 basic ideas

Homemade compost: 3 basic ideas

Preparing our homemade compost has hardly any difficulty, but we must have clear three important ideas before starting:

1. We will need a composter to grow our homemade compost, a suitable container in which to add the raw material that, little by little, will become compost. We can buy this container or, better yet, build our own recycling and giving a second life to objects that have already completed their initial work such as, for example, old pots, work pallets, wooden fruit boxes, etc.

2. Our mix of homemade compost will grow from different types of raw materials : eggshells, fruit and vegetable peels, potato skins, twigs, fresh straw, wet grass, coffee grounds ... The key is in combining the sugar, cellulose and nitrogen of the different organic wastes in order to prepare that organic fertilizer which, in essence, is homemade compost.

3. The most important risk of preparing homemade compost is that the wastes rot and we get nothing more than an informed and pestilent mass. We will avoid that risk in two ways:

  •     Interposing wet and dry wastes in alternate layers .
  •     Periodically ventilating our compost mass.

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HOW TO USE THE COMPOST

HOW TO USE THE COMPOST  

    The compost can be used at any time during its elaboration. Another question is what it brings to the earth at each stage of its decomposition process and where and how to contribute it.

To dose its distribution in addition to differentiating between its use in orchards, trees or shrubs and grass, we must know a little about the health and vigor of the soil and fundamentally its state of biological activity and its content in organic matter and therefore in humus.

Unfermented , freshly piled materials are not in a position to be incorporated into the nutrient cycle of the soil or plants. But they can serve as padding of the soil or mature compost itself, and over time and the activity of microorganisms will be incorporated into the humidification process. It is the moment of greatest presence of nutrients and also the one of least assimilation of nutrients for soils and plants.

The fresh compost can have a few weeks or several months but in it you can see the activity of macro-organisms such as worms, mealybugs and other species. Some remains can also be recognized because they are only partially decomposed. This young compost doesn't have to give off bad smells.    It can be partially taken advantage of by the roots but we must avoid that its non-decomposed parts come into contact with the roots because they still contain inhibitory substances and also if they are buried they can produce rot and toxic elements due to lack of oxygen. It must be used exclusively on the surface, has a high fertilizer value and favors soil microorganisms. It should never be buried and according to environmental conditions it should be protected with a padding for use in orchards.

The mature compost . It can be between several months to a couple of years. The presence of worms is barely visible and the organic remains are no longer recognizable because they are perfectly decomposed. It has a homogeneous structure, a pleasant smell and a practically black color. It can be used in any type of plant without risk of producing inhibitions or other negative effects on its growth. Its fertilizing power is inferior with respect to a young compost since many of its elements have disappeared in the decomposition process. Its use is very suitable in clay soils and could be used in cover or slightly mixed with the most superficial layers of the earth.

The old compost . It is also called mulch. It is always more than one year old and is in the mineralization phase. It can be mixed with the earth and even buried and its action is more effective in heavy lands.

The compost slurry . For specific uses of fertilization of some plants or activation of the compost itself, the compost slurry can be used, which is simply the liquid extraction of many of the solid components of the compost.

To do this, start by mashing a proportion of mature compost and water in relation to weight and volume of compost and water of 1/10 or 3/10, depending on the strength we intend to obtain. Let it macerate for a minimum of one week, stirring at least once a day. Then it is filtered and the water with nutrients is used in the form of irrigation at the base of the plants taking care not to wet the leaves or stems. Leftover solids can be thrown into composting or distributed in coverage.

Use in seedbeds and in pots . To prepare this type of substrate it is convenient to mix a part of mature compost and three of soil. To avoid inhibitions in the germination or in development of the roots of the plants, the compost must be mature.


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Compost in drawers or silos.

Compost in drawers or silos.

Very suitable for domestic quantities of organic food waste, garden and small orchards. Marketed composters of all sizes and materials can be used or built according to simple indications. There is a variant of this composting (vermicomposting or vermicomposting), which is developed with the help of a species of worm called California red (Eisenia foetida), which is very voracious, but which we will not discuss in this manual.

The chest of drawers or silo is very simple to prepare. A drawer made of any type of material with sufficient volume to contain all the organic waste that we produce for at least four months. It has no bottom since direct contact between the earth and the remains is essential; It must have ventilation holes on all sides. The upper part will be covered to better control the humidity although it is also convenient to have small ventilation holes and some environmental humidity inlet; For this part the waste will be poured.

One of its side faces will be ready to open and to better access the pile. At the bottom of this side we will incorporate a small trapdoor where you can take out the compost already prepared.

Composting in these drawers or silos can work continuously respecting the humidity and aeration conditions that we indicated above.

The operation is very simple. The unpleasant smell (not to be confused with the usual smell of each type of organic remains), will indicate compaction, excess or lack of moisture and lack of aeration that will be resolved by turning the waste. If we observe that an excessively whitish coloration begins to appear (presence of a large number of filamentous fungi), we will be faced with a moisture defect that will be resolved by soaking the residues. If we are careful to mix the most aqueous with the least aqueous and the most nitrogenous waste with the least, it will never give us problems.

It is advisable that before settling the composter, we will remove the vegetation from the base that will be used. Also at the beginning of the activity it is convenient that we put on the ground that we have previously stripped of vegetation, some branches of thin bushes to facilitate the initial aeration and some mature compost to accelerate the activation of the decomposition.

There is another type of composting in drawers or silo based on successive flips of the waste. In some of them two or three spaces are used in which they turn around and remake the piles progressively. In this system, residues of higher nitrogen content are needed as it is lost in successive turns.     


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Sheet composting

Sheet composting

A lot is made with series of layers that start with 25 cm. of leaves, another one of two fingers of crushed branches, another one of kitchen waste or cuts of grass is mounted to him and later another one of leaves. Always the last layer will be sheets. The pile is covered with soil to prevent the leaves from flying and after a month we will mix it and air it.


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Conifer Composting

Conifer Composting

The branches are crushed and next to the leaves they are soaked for seven days. They are taken out and piled up for 21 days. The pile is undone and it is redone with a trapezoidal shape of 2.2 m of base by 1.6 m high and 1.1 m of smaller width, it is covered with a thin layer of earth and an upper layer of branches and Hold for 90 days. It is very advisable to periodically irrigate with nettle slurry to activate the slow decomposition.


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Composting plant residues and manure

Composting plant residues and manure

The waste is crushed and soaked for 3 days. Aromatic herbs are collected in all possible varieties and soaked in turn for 24 hours. Then a lot of alternate layers of 15 cm are made.   of plant residues, another of sheep or horse manure and a third of aromatic herbs. This series of layers follow one another until reaching a height of about two meters and is left for 21 days. Then it is undone and re-made in a pyramidal form 2.2 m base by 1.6 m high and left 90 days.


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Composting of plant pruning

 Composting of plant pruning

After accumulating vegetable remains of all kinds, these are crushed and kept submerged in water in a pool or drum, for 24 or 48 hours - according to thickness - Then they are grouped in a pile of 2x2x1.5 m. And it stays for 21 days. Subsequently, this pile is undone and it is redone in a pyramidal form of 2.2m of base by 1.6m of height and the length imposed by the amount of waste, and it is covered with 2 or 3 cm. of dirt or sand and protected by branches or pine trees, for at least 90 days.


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